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Just a quick video showing the in and out of pad and rotor replacement. Don't forget to loosen the cap on the brake master cylinder after the area is cleaned up and before pushing in the piston. You can compress the piston with channel locks, C-clamp, or a piston compressor tool. Remember to never hang the caliper from the brake lines!
One way is to open the bleeder screw just a bit to let the fluid out of the caliper itself instead of going back through the brake line (which the travel of the caliper fluid is not far). I have a machine that I can do bleeding without any help and prefer the bleeder screw method more. You can also hook up a line that fits snug over the bleeder screw and have it go straight up and secure it so when you open the bleeder and push the piston in the fluid will keep any air from going into the caliper and you shouldn't have to bleed the system after you close the bleeder, don't forget the line you use will have some brake fluid in it when you remove it.
Another method which some don't agree with is just to push the piston in without opening the bleeder screw which I've seen people do on their vehicles for years and many many miles without any Brake system trouble. Like I said in my opinion I prefer the bleeder screw since to me the worst fluid is right inside the caliper from all the heat.
Make sure the hardware for the brake pads are cleaned up as well as the piston and the other side of the caliper and use copper anti-seize on the back of the pads where the caliper will touch. After the rotor is off clean up around the hub area and studs and then if you want you can lightly coat it with the copper anti-seize then clean the back of the rim and put together in reverse order. \
When done and all is together hit the brakes a few times and check the fluid levels and add if needed.
