In this video I show you how to convert a Canon Powershot S100 so that it can capture infrared images.
BE SURE TO REMOVE THE BATTERY BEFORE STARTING THIS!
After some additional focus testing I did determine that there is a focus shift when the IR filter is on. The camera easily compensates for this in the "Auto Focus" mode and produces fairly sharp images whether the main subject is distant or close. In the "Manual Focus" mode the distance scale is way off to the extent that "Manual Focus" mode is not really usable. You can get around this by keeping the camera in "Auto" mode, point at something at the distance you want the camera to have a sharp focus, hold the shutter release halfway down, then reframe and shoot without letting the shutter release back up.
Update: February 2015 - I've done some additional testing with a KolariVision 665nm filter, their Photoshop actions and post processing work flow. If you follow the KolariVision recommendation of setting a custom color balance using grass, you cannot open the CRW image files in Camera Raw with the correct color balance because Camera Raw and Photoshop is limited to a minimum color temperture of 2000. You have two choices:
1. Open the CRW file in Canon's Digital Photo Professional (use Version 3.x.x, Version 4 will not work with the S100) and use "File/Convert and Save..." to make a Tiff image, then bring it into Photoshop.
2. Shoot in JPG and work with the JPG files in Photoshop.
Update: April 2015 - The camera stopped working after I dropped it on the carpet, it went completely dead as though the battery was missing. After much testing I determined that there was an invisible short between the front cover and the ribbon cable on the lower right corner (as viewed from the front). I put a couple pieces of Scotch tape over the ribbon cable, put it back together and it now works fine.
Update: May 2015 - A better workflow for getting the correct color balance is shown on page 8 of this pdf document about the DNG Profile Editor from Adobe: http://wwwimages.adobe.com/content/dam/Adobe/en/products/photoshop/pdfs/cs6/DNGProfile_EditorDocumentation.pdf
Be sure to save the adjustments as a Recipe before you save it as a profile. Profiles can't be edited and there's no way to determine the values you used.
Update: March 2017 - I've used this camera for more than a year now and I've found a problem doing the conversion the way I did. There is a reflection from the filter and iris in the middle of photos that is very noticeable in cases where there is sky or some other low contrast object in the middle of the scene. Unfortunately the size and intensity of the reflection is a function of the zoom setting and f stop and the color of the spot is dependent on the lighting conditions (full sun, cloudy, etc.). Photos are usable with very few hotspot problems if you use a 590nm filter, use only f4, and stick to a zoom setting of 28mm, 35mm, or 50mm. Outside this range of settings the reflection can be reduced somewhat by making a flat field exposure and subtracting it from the original image, but the flat field has to be made with the same zoom and focus setting and lighting conditions as the original.
This is an inexpensive way to see if you want to get more involved in infrared photography and get a DSLR or mirrorless camera professionally converted. Check the Kolari Vision website for the list of lenses that have no hotspot problems before you decide on a camera.
