Thank you for watching this video and I hope you’ve found it useful! Please like the video and subscribe if you found it helpful. I plan to add additional videos in the next couple of weeks, including a software configuration guide for this system, a camera triggering tutorial, an RTK GNSS for navigation and camera triggering tutorial, and much more. As promised, here is the information I referenced in the video:
DJI S1000+ frame assembly:
https://youtu.be/Ej1lM5EIovU
Power module and voltage sensor:
Mauch PowerCube 2 – Power module / BEC. NOTE: I forgot to mention in the video that the PowerCube actually gets its power from an XT60 connector/wire that is plugged into the DJI’s power distribution board. The connection on the power distribution board already exists next to where I placed the PowerCube, and the PowerCube comes with a red and black wire dangling off of it where you are supposed to attach the appropriate connector. For the DJI S1000+ this connector is the XT60.
Mauch HS-200-HV – Voltage sensor
Autopilot and GPS:
Pixhawk 2.1 with Edison capability – from ProfiCNC reseller. NOTE: In the video I point out that my autopilot is facing backwards and I explain why that is OK. I forgot to explain why it is backwards though. The ESC cables that came with the S1000+ are pretty short and would not have reached the Pixhawk’s rail if I had the Pixhawk facing forward. Additionally, I like the position I picked for the Pixhawk and did not want to run 8 longer cables under the frame in order to make them reach the rail.
Here+ GPS – came with the Pixhawk 2.1
Edison compute module – from Amazon
Pixnor Apm2.6 MWC GPS Compass Antenna Mast – from Amazon
Radio control and telemetry:
FrSky X8R – for RC and RC telemetry on the Taranus Plus
Taranus Plus – RC flight controller
3DR Radio – for Telemetry. You can also use the RFD900+ or similar radios, which might provide better signal. The configuration process is similar between the 3DR and RFD radios
Tools used for the build:
Soldering Iron – you want a good iron with controllable heat… those power cords are thick. I used a Hakko FX-888D.
Solder – lead solder with a rosin flux core, plus a separate tub of flux is a good idea.
Helping Hands – metal clamps that hold your wires together while you solder.
Cable stripper – makes cutting and stripping the cable for soldering much, much simpler and reduces the risk of cutting through more than the shielding.
Liquid electrical tape – not strictly necessary, but considering the voltage and current going through the positive battery cable I prefer the added sense of security. Make sure you let the stuff dry completely before doing any other work on the cable.
Red electrical tape – it’s a positive wire, so red makes more sense to me, but technically black would work.
