"Everyone has his or her definition of what it means to be alive. For some, it's waking up in a big city, going to work, watching a soap opera, going to sleep... repeat, day after day. For me, that is the definition of being alive, not feeling alive. I demand more from life, I need to feel alive; and nothing makes me feel more alive than surfing. I have structured my life and sacrificed greatly in order to build my life around surfing. I don't believe in destiny, I believe that anyone, anywhere, has the ability to create the life they want to live. If I can do it, you can do it. So get out there and start living the life you want!"
Thanks to everyone who helped us to make this project possible!
Special thanks to Marta, Tamara and Froggy for all the crazy trips!
Thanks to From Froggy With Love, Imi Loa, Mote and Milk the goat for your support!
